比萨逐步演变成一种面包和番茄菜肴,通常搭配奶酪,但20世纪初以前,这道菜是甜味而非咸味,像是现在被称为 schiacciata 的扁平面包。[17]佩莱格里诺·阿图西(Pellegrino Artusi)在20世纪早期的经典食谱《La Scienza in cucina e l'Arte di mangiar bene》给出了3种比萨食谱,都属于甜食。[18]经过一些读者的回馈,在1911年发行时添加了一张与该书装订在一起的打字纸,上面写的那不勒斯比萨食谱包括马苏里拉奶酪、番茄、鳀鱼和蘑菇[19];到1927年,意大利厨师艾达·博尼(Ada Boni)在其著名的意大利食谱《il talismano della felicità》采用了包括西红柿和马苏里拉奶酪在内的食谱,日后比萨才转为以咸味为主。[20]
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